How to choose a belay device & locking carabiner
The Escapades buying guide
How to choose a belay device & locking carabiner
Compare the belay devices and locking carabiners in the Escapades range—from assisted braking for sport and indoor climbing to guide-mode devices and matched DMM belay sets for trad and multi-pitch, plus HMS, orientation-control, compact and specialist pulley lockers.
Quick picks
Which belay device?
Mainly indoor / sport on a single rope: choose the Movement when assisted braking is the priority.
Simple matched manual set: choose the DMM Mantis & Shadow HMS for everyday belaying and abseiling without guide mode.
Trad / multi-pitch: choose the Rock Empire Twin for value, or the DMM Pivot & Phantom HMS for a premium matched set with extra leverage when lowering a second.
Lightweight mountain use: choose the Pro Guide Lite when device weight matters and you already understand manual tube-device technique.
Which locking carabiner?
Belaying: a roomy HMS is the default; Gatekeeper and DMM Ceros manage orientation, while the DMM Belay Master also gives a clear sleeve-lock cue.
Anchors: compact lockers such as the Bravo or Session save weight and rack space.
Auto-lock preference: the Xenon HMS Tri-Lock closes automatically, but still needs a positive visual and physical check.
Redirects and hauling: the DMM Revolver combines a locking connector with a roller; it is a specialist system tool rather than the default belay HMS.
Belay device comparison
Existing prices are from the supplied Escapades export; the DMM additions are from their live product listings. All prices may change on the live store.
| Device | Type | Ropes | Weight | Best for | Our take | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wild Country Movement | Geometrically assisted braking | Single 8.5–11 mm | — | Indoor, sport, top rope, everyday cragging | Best assisted-braking all-rounder | £35.99 |
| DMM Mantis & Shadow HMS Set | Manual tube set; two friction modes | Half/twin 7.3–9.2 mm; single 8.5–11 mm | 131 g set 45 g device |
Sport, trad, abseiling, simple matched setup | Best ready-matched manual set | £34.95 |
| Rock Empire Twin | Manual tube + guide mode | 7.8–10.5 mm; single or double | 76 g | Trad, multi-pitch, abseiling, bringing up seconds | Best-value trad / multi-pitch all-rounder | £25.99 |
| DMM Pivot & Phantom HMS Set | Manual tube + guide mode set | Half/twin 7.3–9.2 mm; single 8.7–11 mm | 130 g set | Trad, alpine, multi-pitch, controlled lowering of seconds | Best premium multi-pitch set | £49.95 |
| Wild Country Pro Guide Lite | Manual tube + guide mode | From 7.7 mm | 70 g | Alpine, trad, multi-pitch, long approaches | Best lightweight mountain device | £25.49 |
Locking carabiner comparison
| Carabiner | Lock | Shape | Weight | Strength | Best for | Our take | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Metolius Gatekeeper | Screwgate + captive orientation | Belay / HMS | 70 g | 22 kN | Belaying, rappelling, assisted-braking devices | Best dedicated belay carabiner | £18.99 |
|
DMM Belay Master Lime or Matt Grey |
Screwgate + removable nylon orientation clip | Belay / HMS | 93 g | 25 kN | Everyday belaying, lead/top rope, visual lock check | Best visual lock-check belay carabiner | £22.95 |
| DMM Ceros Screwgate | Screwgate + internal wiregate | Belay / HMS | 86 g | 25 kN | Belaying, lowering, orientation control | Best low-profile orientation control | £20.75 |
| Metolius Element Keylock | Screwgate | Pear / HMS-style | 73 g | 24 kN | Belaying, rappelling, general climbing | Best value pear-shaped belay locker | £12.99 |
| Wild Country Xenon HMS Tri-Lock | Tri-Lock auto-lock | HMS / pear | 75 g | 24 kN | Belaying, anchors, multi-pitch rope management | Best auto-locking HMS | £16.99 |
| Wild Country Xenon HMS Screwgate | Screwgate | HMS / pear | 71 g | 24 kN | Belaying, anchors, clove hitches, multi-pitch | Best HMS all-rounder | £14.99 |
| Rock Empire HMS Smart S | Screwgate | HMS | 68 g | 24 kN | Belaying, rigging, general locking use | Best budget HMS | £10.00 |
| Metolius Bravo Locker | Screwgate | Compact offset-D | 43 g | 24 kN | Anchors, trad racks, multi-pitch, general locking | Best lightweight locking carabiner | £12.99 |
| Wild Country Session Screwgate | Screwgate | Compact locking | 45 g | 23 kN | Anchors, sport, trad, general locking jobs | Best compact everyday locker | £9.59 |
| Wild Country Session Screwgate 3-Pack | Screwgate | Compact locking | 45 g each | 23 kN each | Building a small locker rack for anchors and general systems | Best ready-made anchor pack | £27.99 |
| DMM Revolver Screwgate | Screwgate + integrated roller | Compact D / pulley | 63 g | 24 kN | Redirects, compact hauling, rescue and rope management | Best specialist pulley locker | £32.95 |
Choosing a device and carabiner by climbing style
| Climbing style | Belay device | Carabiner role / example | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| Indoor / first lead setup | Wild Country Movement | DMM Belay Master or Metolius Gatekeeper | Assisted braking plus a dedicated belay carabiner with an orientation cue. Confirm the exact carabiner is approved for the device before use. |
| Simple manual all-round set | DMM Mantis | Supplied DMM Shadow HMS | A ready-matched manual belay and abseil set with two friction positions; it does not add guide mode. |
| Sport climbing | Wild Country Movement | Wild Country Xenon HMS Tri-Lock | An assisted-braking single-rope setup with an HMS-style locker. Confirm the exact carabiner is approved for the device before use. |
| Trad cragging / value multi-pitch | Rock Empire Twin | Wild Country Xenon HMS Screwgate | Double-rope and abseil versatility with guide mode, at the lowest device price in the multi-pitch group. |
| Premium multi-pitch | DMM Pivot | Supplied DMM Phantom HMS | A matched guide-mode set whose pivoting attachment point gives extra leverage when lowering a second. |
| Alpine / weight-focused | Wild Country Pro Guide Lite | Metolius Bravo + approved HMS belay locker | A very light guide-mode device; keep the compact Bravo for suitable anchor jobs rather than assuming it is the preferred belay connector. |
| Orientation-control belay upgrade | Your existing compatible device | DMM Ceros or DMM Belay Master | Ceros uses an internal wiregate and horn; Belay Master uses a removable clip that only closes once the sleeve is locked. |
| Anchor-building starter rack | Your existing compatible belay device | Wild Country Session 3-Pack | Three compact lockers give a practical base for suitable anchor systems and general locking duties. |
| Redirects / compact hauling | Use the device or hauling system specified for the task | DMM Revolver Screwgate | The integrated roller reduces friction at a locking redirect; it does not replace a dedicated pulley where the system requires one. |
Assisted braking or a manual tube device?
Assisted braking
Best represented here by the Wild Country Movement. It is aimed at regular single-rope lead and top-rope climbing where you want an additional braking assist.
Choose it if: most of your climbing is indoor or sport and you use a single rope.
Simple manual tube set
The DMM Mantis & Shadow HMS is the neatest ready-matched manual option. It offers two friction positions for belaying and abseiling without adding guide mode.
Choose it if: you want a conventional, lightweight device-and-carabiner set for sport, trad and abseiling.
Manual tube + guide mode
The Rock Empire Twin, DMM Pivot and Pro Guide Lite cover multi-pitch systems, double ropes and abseiling. The Pivot adds a matched HMS and extra leverage for lowering a second.
Choose one if: you climb trad, multi-pitch or alpine routes and need guide-mode and twin-rope functionality.
HMS, compact locker or auto-lock?
- HMS / pear-shaped: the default shape for belay devices, Italian/Munter hitches and roomy anchor work. Element, Xenon HMS and HMS Smart S sit here.
- Orientation-control belay carabiners: Gatekeeper, DMM Ceros and DMM Belay Master are all designed to discourage rotation, but use different systems. Belay Master also makes the locked sleeve easier to verify.
- Compact lockers: Bravo and Session save weight and space for anchors and general locking connections, but are less roomy than a full HMS for belaying.
- Auto-locking: the Xenon HMS Tri-Lock automatically returns to locked. It can reduce the chance of leaving a screw sleeve open, but you still need to check that the gate is fully closed and locked.
- Pulley locker: the DMM Revolver is for suitable redirects, compact hauling and rope-management systems. Treat it as a specialist connector, not a generic replacement for a belay HMS.
- Accessory-only mini locker: the DMM XSRE Lock is not PPE and is only for keys, tools and lightweight accessories.
Every belay device
Belay device · Best assisted-braking all-rounder
Wild Country Movement
£35.99
The easiest recommendation here for climbers who mainly use a single rope. It adds geometrically assisted braking while retaining familiar rope-feeding technique, with steel at the braking and rope-contact areas for durability.
Rope compatibility: Single 8.5–11 mm
Weight: —
Best for: Indoor, sport, top rope, everyday cragging
- Assisted braking adds an extra safety margin
- Smooth feeding for lead and top-rope belaying
- Single-rope range covers common indoor and sport ropes
- Durable steel braking and rope-contact parts
Worth knowing: Not a guide-mode twin-rope device. Always keep the brake hand on the rope and use the manufacturer-approved technique.
View Wild Country Movement →
DMM belay set · Best ready-matched manual set
DMM Mantis & Shadow HMS Belay Set
£34.95
A simple, lightweight manual belay and abseil package. The Mantis gives two friction positions, while the supplied Shadow HMS provides a ready-matched connection without the bulk of a more specialised guide-mode set.
Rope compatibility: Half/twin 7.3–9.2 mm; single 8.5–11 mm
Weight: 131 g set; 45 g device
Best for: Sport, trad, abseiling, simple everyday setups
- Two friction positions for different ropes and braking feel
- Supplied with a DMM Shadow HMS screwgate
- Works with single, half and twin ropes in the stated ranges
- Low 45 g device weight
Worth knowing: This is a manual tube device without guide mode. Correct brake-hand technique remains essential.
View DMM Mantis & Shadow HMS →
Belay device · Best trad / multi-pitch all-rounder
Rock Empire Twin
£25.99
A versatile guide-mode device with a clever rotating anchor attachment. It works for lead belaying, one or two seconds and abseiling, making it the broadest mountain-use option in this range.
Rope compatibility: 7.8–10.5 mm; single or double
Weight: 76 g
Best for: Trad, multi-pitch, abseiling, bringing up seconds
- Guide mode for one or two seconds
- Single- and double-rope compatible
- V-shaped braking surfaces
- Rotating attachment helps alignment at different anchors
Worth knowing: A manual braking device: correct brake-hand technique remains essential.
View Rock Empire Twin →
DMM belay set · Best premium multi-pitch set
DMM Pivot & Phantom HMS Belay Set
£49.95
The premium multi-pitch step-up in this comparison. Its pivoting guide-mode attachment gives more leverage when lowering a second, and the supplied Phantom HMS makes it a neat matched system for trad and alpine routes.
Rope compatibility: Half/twin 7.3–9.2 mm; single 8.7–11 mm
Weight: 130 g set
Best for: Trad, alpine, multi-pitch, bringing up and lowering seconds
- Guide mode for one or two seconds
- Pivoting attachment point adds leverage for controlled lowering
- Two rope-running positions for different friction levels
- Supplied with a DMM Phantom HMS screwgate
Worth knowing: Use only with compatible ropes and locking connectors, and follow DMM’s guide-mode lowering instructions exactly.
View DMM Pivot & Phantom HMS →
Belay device · Best lightweight mountain device
Wild Country Pro Guide Lite
£25.49
The weight-focused option for climbers who want guide mode without carrying more than necessary. Deep ribbed grooves help with rope control and the larger release slot is designed to make guide-mode lowering more manageable.
Rope compatibility: From 7.7 mm
Weight: 70 g
Best for: Alpine, trad, multi-pitch, long approaches
- Only 70 g
- Guide mode for one or two followers
- Works with thin alpine ropes from 7.7 mm
- Large release slot for lowering under load
Worth knowing: Check the exact rope diameter and configuration against the current Wild Country instructions before use.
View Wild Country Pro Guide Lite →Every locking carabiner
Locking carabiner · Best dedicated belay carabiner
Metolius Gatekeeper
£18.99
The most specialised belay carabiner in the range. Its geometry keeps the carabiner aligned on the belay loop and the widened spine is designed to reduce migration of assisted-braking devices.
Shape: Belay / HMS
Weight: 70 g
Major-axis strength: 22 kN
Best for: Belaying, rappelling, assisted-braking devices
- Helps prevent cross-loading
- Keeps belay device better aligned
- Designed around belay/rappel use
- Good pairing for assisted-braking devices
DMM locking carabiner · Best visual lock-check belay carabiner
DMM Belay Master
£22.95
A belay-specific screwgate with a removable nylon clip that can only close once the locking sleeve is fully shut. The clip also keeps the belay loop captive and helps hold the carabiner in its intended orientation.
Shape: Belay / HMS
Weight: 93 g
Major-axis strength: 25 kN
Best for: Everyday belaying, lead and top rope, consistent lock checks
- Clip closure gives a clear locked-sleeve cue
- Helps reduce cross-loading and unwanted rotation
- Full-size basket for compatible belay devices
- Available in Lime or Matt Grey at the same listed price
Worth knowing: The clip supports correct setup but never replaces a partner check or the need to verify that the gate is closed and locked.
View Matt Grey → View Lime →
DMM locking carabiner · Best low-profile orientation control
DMM Ceros Screwgate
£20.75
A belay-focused screwgate that controls orientation without a removable plastic clip. Its internal wiregate keeps the belay loop separated, while the horned body and broad top bar discourage rotation and provide a clean contact surface for compatible devices.
Shape: Belay / HMS
Weight: 86 g
Major-axis strength: 25 kN
Best for: Belaying, lowering, top rope and orientation control
- Internal wiregate manages belay-loop position
- Horned body helps resist rotation
- Broad full-section top bar for device contact
- Keylock nose for cleaner clipping
Worth knowing: Always lock the sleeve, check orientation and confirm compatibility with the belay device being used.
View DMM Ceros Screwgate →
Locking carabiner · Best value pear-shaped belay locker
Metolius Element Keylock
£12.99
A straightforward pear-shaped locking carabiner with a wide 12 mm rope-bearing surface and snag-free keylock nose. A strong everyday choice if you do not need a captive keeper.
Shape: Pear / HMS-style
Weight: 73 g
Major-axis strength: 24 kN
Best for: Belaying, rappelling, general climbing
- 24 kN major-axis strength
- 12 mm rope-bearing surface
- Keylock nose
- Simple all-round belay shape
Locking carabiner · Best auto-locking HMS
Wild Country Xenon HMS Tri-Lock
£16.99
A roomy HMS carabiner with an automatic triple-action locking gate. It suits climbers who prefer a gate that returns to locked without having to remember to screw the sleeve shut.
Shape: HMS / pear
Weight: 75 g
Major-axis strength: 24 kN
Best for: Belaying, anchors, multi-pitch rope management
- Automatic Tri-Lock closure
- Roomy pear shape for knots and devices
- Keylock nose
- 21 mm gate opening
Locking carabiner · Best HMS all-rounder
Wild Country Xenon HMS Screwgate
£14.99
A classic manual-locking HMS with plenty of room for knots and belay devices. The keylock nose and pear shape make it especially useful at belays and as a central anchor connector.
Shape: HMS / pear
Weight: 71 g
Major-axis strength: 24 kN
Best for: Belaying, anchors, clove hitches, multi-pitch
- Spacious HMS basket
- 24 kN major axis
- Keylock nose
- 21 mm gate opening
Locking carabiner · Best budget HMS
Rock Empire HMS Smart S
£10.00
A small, good-value HMS screwgate with an angled keylock nose. It is certified for both sport and industrial standards and gives proper HMS functionality at the lowest price in the dedicated HMS group.
Shape: HMS
Weight: 68 g
Major-axis strength: 24 kN
Best for: Belaying, rigging, general locking use
- 68 g
- 24 kN major axis
- 21 mm gate opening
- EN 12275 and EN 362 certification
Locking carabiner · Best lightweight locking carabiner
Metolius Bravo Locker
£12.99
The lightest locker in this comparison. It is a better choice for anchor building and reducing rack weight than as a roomy primary belay HMS.
Shape: Compact offset-D
Weight: 43 g
Major-axis strength: 24 kN
Best for: Anchors, trad racks, multi-pitch, general locking
- Only 43 g
- 24 kN strength
- Compact hot-forged body
- Keylock nose
Locking carabiner · Best compact everyday locker
Wild Country Session Screwgate
£9.59
A compact, easy-handling screwgate that is ideal when you want several lockers on the rack without the bulk of full-size HMS carabiners.
Shape: Compact locking
Weight: 45 g
Major-axis strength: 23 kN
Best for: Anchors, sport, trad, general locking jobs
- 45 g
- 23 kN major axis
- Keylock nose
- Compact and easy to rack
Locking carabiner · Best ready-made anchor pack
Wild Country Session Screwgate 3-Pack
£27.99
Three Session ScrewGates supplied as a ready-made pack. Useful if you want multiple compact lockers for anchor work, although the current export pricing should be checked against buying three singles.
Shape: Compact locking
Weight: 45 g each
Major-axis strength: 23 kN each
Best for: Building a small locker rack for anchors and general systems
- Three matching lockers
- Useful anchor-building quantity
- Compact 45 g design
- Keylock noses
DMM locking carabiner · Best specialist pulley locker
DMM Revolver Screwgate
£32.95
A specialist locking carabiner with an integrated roller that reduces rope friction through suitable redirects and compact hauling systems. It fills a genuine rope-management gap in the range rather than replacing a normal HMS belay carabiner.
Shape: Compact D with integrated roller
Weight: 63 g
Major-axis strength: 24 kN
Best for: Locking redirects, compact hauling, trad and alpine rescue kits
- Integrated roller reduces friction at directional changes
- Full-strength locking connection
- Compact two-in-one rope-management tool
- Keylock-style nose for cleaner clipping
Worth knowing: Use only in rated configurations. It does not replace a dedicated pulley where the system design calls for one, and it is not the default carabiner shape for belaying.
View DMM Revolver Screwgate →Our final picks
- Best belay device for most indoor and sport climbers: Wild Country Movement. Assisted braking, a broad common single-rope range and familiar handling make it the easiest everyday recommendation.
- Best ready-matched manual set: DMM Mantis & Shadow HMS. A simple device, two friction positions and a supplied HMS make it the cleanest conventional set for sport, trad and abseiling.
- Best-value belay device for trad and multi-pitch: Rock Empire Twin. Guide mode, double-rope compatibility and abseil functionality give it the strongest value proposition.
- Best premium multi-pitch set: DMM Pivot & Phantom HMS. The matched HMS and pivoting guide-mode attachment make lowering a second more manageable.
- Best visual lock-check belay carabiner: DMM Belay Master. Its removable clip confirms the screw sleeve is shut before it can close and also controls orientation.
- Best low-profile orientation-control belay carabiner: DMM Ceros. An internal wiregate and horned body manage rotation without a removable plastic keeper.
- Best straightforward HMS value: Metolius Element Keylock. A roomy pear shape, 24 kN strength and a wide rope-bearing surface without unnecessary complication.
- Best lightweight anchor locker: Metolius Bravo. At 43 g it remains the obvious weight-saving option for a trad or multi-pitch rack.
- Best specialist locking redirect: DMM Revolver Screwgate. The integrated roller gives it a distinct hauling and rope-management role that ordinary HMS and compact lockers do not cover.
