Hangboard vs no-hang training

A hangboard fixes the hold overhead and you change difficulty by adding/removing bodyweight. A no-hang tool stays in the hand while you pull an external load from the floor. That usually makes resistance easier to quantify and change in small increments.

Choose the weakness, then the tool

Edges train edge force; pinch blocks train pinch strength; cylinders target open-hand/sloper demands; mono/duo tools target pockets; a force sensor measures output. Buying the most complicated device is not the same as choosing the most useful one.

Edge strength / half crimp

Start with the MXEdge Lift or Tension Ergo Edge. Choose the Pro Edge Platform if you already know you want interchangeable edge inserts and a more expandable long-term system.

Pinch strength

The Lattice Quad Block is the obvious dedicated choice. Its multiple pinch widths and repeatable setup make it much more specific than trying to improvise pinch training on a normal hangboard.

Mixed grips and project specificity

Choose Tension The Block, YY Penta/Penta Evo or Metolius Nano Rings when you want one device to cover several grip types rather than only a benchmark edge.

Testing and measurable targets

The Pitch Six Force Board is a force sensor rather than a grip. Pair it with an edge or block when you want peak-force tests, target-force training and progress data instead of relying only on plate weight or feel.

Slopers / open-hand strength

The YY Vertical Twin Cylinders and Lattice Heavy Roller shift emphasis toward open-hand, wrist and forearm strength rather than crimp-specific finger force.

Pocket / mono strength

The YY Duo and YY Mono are specialist tools for climbers who already have a reason to train those positions. They are not the first tools we would recommend for general finger-strength development.

#1 · Best overall no-hang edge

Lattice MXEdge Lift - Ergonomic Finger Strength Lifting Block (7 Grip Positions)

£49.99

A dedicated ergonomic lifting edge for no-hang training: instead of suspending your body from a board, you pull a known external load from the floor. That makes loading easy to measure, progress and reduce when needed.

• Excellent for repeatable progressive overload
• Lets you regulate load more precisely than bodyweight hanging
• Useful for testing as well as training
• A strong first choice for climbers moving into structured no-hang work

#2 · Best ergonomic edge

Tension Ergo Edge - Ergonomic 25mm No-Hang Training Edge (L/R Profiles)

£44.99

A purpose-shaped 25 mm lifting edge that accounts for differences in finger length through left- and right-hand profiles. It is a focused option for climbers who mainly want edge-strength work rather than many grip types.

• Simple and specific 25 mm benchmark
• Ergonomic profile aims for more even finger loading
• Easy to pair with weights, bands or a force sensor
• Less versatile than a multi-grip block, but very focused

#3 · Best modular system

Tension Pro Edge Platform (PEP) - Modular No-Hang Finger Training System

£69.99

The Pro Edge Platform is the most system-based option here: an aluminium frame accepts interchangeable edge inserts, allowing a training setup to evolve as you add different grip depths or profiles.

• Most customisable edge-training platform in the range
• Designed for repeatable high-load training
• 20 mm insert gives a familiar starting benchmark
• Makes most sense for climbers committed to structured strength work

#4 · Best multi-grip block

Tension The Block - Portable Climbing Training Block with Multi-Grip Holds

£49.99

The Block is the versatile alternative to a single lifting edge. Multiple edges, pockets and pinches let you train different grip demands with one compact wooden tool, making it particularly useful if your projects are not all about straight edges.

• Broadest grip variety among the compact no-hang blocks
• Useful for project-specific grip training
• Can scale from warm-up pulls to heavier lifting
• Good choice if you only want one small training block

#5 · Best pinch trainer

Lattice Quad Block - Adjustable Pinch Block for Grip Strength Training & Testing

£59.99

A dedicated pinch-strength tool with several repeatable pinch widths plus a 30 mm pick-up edge. It is a much better match than a conventional hangboard if the weakness you are trying to address is pinch force.

• Purpose-built for pinch strength
• Mechanical depth stoppers improve repeatability
• Works with Lattice My Pinch testing
• Pair with a lifting pin and fractional plates for precise progression

#6 · Best for data & testing

Pitch Six Force Board - Digital Climbing Dynamometer & Portable Strength Training System

£139.99

This is not a hold by itself: it is the measurement layer. The Force Board records force and sends the data to an app, allowing you to quantify isometric pulls, set targets and track whether your strength work is actually progressing.

• Best option for data-driven training
• Can be paired with edges, blocks and other handles
• Useful for baseline testing and target-force sessions
• Overkill if you simply want a basic warm-up tool

#7 · Best versatile training pair

YY Vertical Penta Evo - Portable Climbing Training Holds (7 Grip Positions, Rotating, Pair)

£64.99

The Penta Evo combines a rotating multi-grip trainer with ring-style suspension use. It suits climbers who want one pair of tools to cover finger work, unilateral pulling and broader suspension exercises.

• Wide range of grips in a paired setup
• Can be used like rings as well as finger trainers
• Rotation makes grip changes fast
• More versatile—but bulkier—than a single simple lifting edge

#8 · Best multi-grip value

YY Vertical Penta Training Blocks - Modular Climbing Grip Trainers (7 Edge Depths, Rotating System)

£49.99

The standard Penta offers a dense set of edge and pocket options in a compact rotating format. It is a strong value choice for climbers who want multiple grip types without buying a larger training platform.

• Multiple edge depths in one small tool
• Includes mono and duo positions
• Good for unilateral ground-based pulls
• Current export contains another overlapping Penta listing—see catalogue note

#9 · Best progressive beginner-friendly pair

YY Vertical Rocky Training Grips - Wooden Hanging Finger Trainers (5 Grip Depths + Handle)

£42.99

A simpler pair of hanging training grips with several progressive edge depths and a handle. The larger options make it easier to start with lower intensity than specialist mono or micro-edge tools.

• Straightforward progression
• Useful for both warm-ups and structured training
• Handle option makes low-intensity starting work easier
• Good bridge between general climbing and more specific no-hang tools

#10 · Best compact specialist

YY Vertical Triangle Grip Trainer - Portable Climbing Finger Trainer (Rotating, Multi-Edge)

£38.99

A very small rotating pair with 25, 20 and 15 mm edges plus a mono position and tray. It is a specialist travel-friendly option for climbers who want more specificity than a general warm-up edge.

• Compact and easy to travel with
• Quickly rotates between grip positions
• Includes mono-specific work
• Current export also contains an older overlapping Triangle listing

#11 · Best sloper & open-hand trainer

YY Vertical Twin Cylinders - Wooden Sloper Grip Trainers (33mm / 55mm, Pair)

£25.99

These cylindrical grips deliberately move away from straight edges. They are designed to challenge open-hand and sloper strength, making them useful when rounded holds and compression are the weakness rather than crimping.

• Targets a different strength quality from edge lifting
• Useful for sloper-heavy bouldering
• Trains forearm and wrist contribution as well as fingers
• Specialist addition rather than a first finger-strength tool

#12 · Best two-finger specialist

YY Vertical Duo Grip Trainer - Mono & Two-Finger Climbing Training Block (Portable)

£17.99

A compact block aimed at isolated two-finger and mono-style pulling. This is a specialist tool: it becomes useful when pocket strength is specifically relevant to your climbing and you already have experience managing finger-training load.

• Highly specific pocket training
• Easy to load gradually from the floor
• Very compact
• Not a sensible starting point for inexperienced finger training

#13 · Best mono specialist

YY Vertical Mono Grip Trainer - Single Finger Climbing Training Tool (Ultra-Compact)

£12.99

The narrowest specialist tool in the range: a compact grip for isolating one finger at a time. Use it only when mono strength is genuinely relevant and when you already understand how to control finger-training intensity.

• Extremely targeted training stimulus
• Useful for correcting specific strength imbalances when programmed appropriately
• Tiny and portable
• High specificity means it should not be treated as a general beginner trainer

#14 · Best ultralight all-round blocks

Metolius Nano Rings - Portable Finger Training Blocks (Hangboard Alternative, Ultralight)

£49.99

Nano Rings can be used as a pair for suspension work or individually for ground pulls and weighted training. Their small size makes them one of the easiest multi-purpose options to keep in a crag or travel bag.

• Flexible between hanging and no-hang use
• Easy to travel with
• Good as a simple general-purpose pair
• Also overlaps with the portable-hangboard category

Supporting tool · Forearm & wrist conditioning

Lattice Heavy Roller - Forearm & Wrist Strength Trainer for Climbers

£44.99

Trains wrist flexors/extensors and open-hand forearm strength with less direct finger-tendon loading than edge hangs.

• Trains wrist flexors/extensors and open-hand forearm strength with less direct finger-tendon loading than edge hangs.

Supporting tool · Hand balance / antagonist work

Metolius GripSaver Plus - Finger, Hand & Forearm Strengthener for Climbing Rehab & Injury Prevention

£19.50

Designed to train gripping and opposing hand muscles through a broad range of motion; useful for general conditioning and clinician-guided rehab work.

• Designed to train gripping and opposing hand muscles through a broad range of motion; useful for general conditioning and clinician-guided rehab work.

Supporting tool · Warm-up, mobility & light rehab

Rock Technologies Power Putty - Finger Training & Rehab Putty (3 Strengths: Easy, Medium, Hard)

£8.49

Low-cost resistance putty available in several strengths for gentle hand/finger work and warm-up.

• Low-cost resistance putty available in several strengths for gentle hand/finger work and warm-up.

Supporting tool · Loading accessory

Lattice Lifting Pin - Climbing Grip Training Weight Loading System (1" & 2" Compatible)

£32.99

A dedicated pin for attaching weight plates cleanly to lifting edges, pinch blocks and similar devices.

• A dedicated pin for attaching weight plates cleanly to lifting edges, pinch blocks and similar devices.

Supporting tool · Progression accessory

Lattice Fractional Weight Plates (2.5kg Set) - Precision Training Plates for Progressive Loading

£44.99

0.25 / 0.50 / 0.75 / 1.00 kg plates allow smaller load increases when a 2.5–5 kg jump is too large.

• 0.25 / 0.50 / 0.75 / 1.00 kg plates allow smaller load increases when a 2.5–5 kg jump is too large.

1. Pick one measurable grip

A comfortable edge around 20–25 mm is easier to standardise than constantly changing holds. Consistency makes progress easier to see.

2. Use a load you can control

With no-hang training, begin with a resistance that lets you pull smoothly without twisting the tool or changing finger position. Add load gradually.

3. Keep grip position consistent

Half crimp, open hand and pocket positions load tissues differently. Do not treat every session as an opportunity to test every grip type.

4. Progress one variable at a time

Increase resistance, total work or grip difficulty gradually rather than changing all three at once. Fractional plates or force targets are useful precisely because they allow small steps.